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"Bâtis ta place dans Villeray", voilà ce qu'arborait le tout nouveau Huis Clos dans Villeray avant son ouverture. C'est qu'il voulait s'assurer d'être à l'image des résidents du coin, qui sont, faut-il bien avouer, assez choyés ces temps-ci avec de nouvelles adresses sympathiques qui ouvrent leurs portes. Villeray me fait penser à Hochelaga, qui, bien que très différent sur de nombreux aspects, profite d'une belle effervescence que jalousent de nombreux autres quartiers.
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Après avoir pédalé à travers les rues de Montréal, je suis assoiffée. Je demande un grand verre d'eau et Charles approche. Charles, c'est le co-propriétaire qui accueille tout le monde avec un grand sourire. Je regarde la liste des bières, la sélection de vin, à 90% d'importation privée, et les cocktails. Il me conseille le Bloody Ceasar, son préféré. À en juger par sa popularité au bar, il doit être bon. Jus de tomate maison, vodka Absolut Peppar, piment Habanero, mélange de "Montreal Spices" préparé sur place, le résultat est surprenant: assez épicé, même piquant en gorge, mais rafraîchissant.
Côté bouffe, le menu est assez frais, saison oblige. Les plateaux à partager sont tentants, mais la sélection d'huîtres présentées froides et chaudes, attirent particulièrement mon attention. Ce sera des Malpeque Rockefeller façon Huis Clos et Caribou et foie gras. Lorsque l'assiette arrive, je suis étonnée par les morceaux généreux de foie gras. Mes papilles, qui ne pensent qu'à la première bouchée, convainquent mes artères avec un argument de taille: les huîtres sont riches en protéines, vitamines et minéraux, et ne contiennent pas de cholestérol. C'est donc pour la bonne cause que je me lance.
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Dans un tout autre esprit, je poursuis avec le gravlax de boeuf. Puristes, ne soyez pas outrés. On sait bien que le terme "gravlax" s'applique normalement au saumon, mais c'est ici le terme choisi pour le bœuf en saumure. Il est présenté sur un lit d'haricots verts et asperges, accompagné d'une vinaigrette à l'estragon et une purée d'oignon à la moutarde. Je suis conquise. Les tranches de bœuf sont bien salées, et contrastent avec la fraîcheur de la salade.
Je devrais partir, mais la Coquille Saint-Jacques me fait de l'œil depuis que nos regards se sont croisés. Comme résister à la tentation ne fait pas partie de mes vertus, ce sera ma dernière bouchée pour clore la soirée en beauté. La Saint-Jacques arrive, joliment servie sur un lit de gros sel. Pétoncle, crevettes nordiques et palourdes sont délicatement mélangées dans le beurre, le sel et une touche de fromage. Si j'ai beaucoup aimé les huîtres et le gravlax de bœuf, cette Coquille Saint Jacques se démarque incontestablement par sa texture généreuse et son goût qui nous oblige à fermer les yeux lorsqu'on la déguste.
Si je m'attendais à un petit bar de quartier sympathique, mais sans grande surprises, le Huis Clos m'a conquise avec ses produits de qualité, offerts à des prix plus que raisonnables. L'heure est définitivement aux bars avec une vraie cuisine.
Plats: huîtres (12$ pour 3, 19$ pour 5), gravlax de bœuf (15$), Coquille Saint Jacques (11$)
À surveiller: jeudi 5 à 7 avec cocktails 2 oz à moitié prix, DJ mercredi au samedi
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7659, St Denis (coin Villeray)
(514) 419-8579
https://www.facebook.com/HuisClosVilleray
HUIS CLOS
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Lorsque je passe la porte du Huis Clos, je regarde autours de moi: des jeunes et des moins jeunes, tous détendus en cette soirée tiède de début de semaine. Bois, touches rétro, on perçoit même un côté bunker lorsqu'on prête attention aux détails. L'ambiance ici est branchée, mais décontractée. Bref, très Villeray. On est loin de l'esprit du Miss Villeray, situé à seulement deux coins de rue.
Après avoir pédalé à travers les rues de Montréal, je suis assoiffée. Je demande un grand verre d'eau et Charles approche. Charles, c'est le co-propriétaire qui accueille tout le monde avec un grand sourire. Je regarde la liste des bières, la sélection de vin, à 90% d'importation privée, et les cocktails. Il me conseille le Bloody Ceasar, son préféré. À en juger par sa popularité au bar, il doit être bon. Jus de tomate maison, vodka Absolut Peppar, piment Habanero, mélange de "Montreal Spices" préparé sur place, le résultat est surprenant: assez épicé, même piquant en gorge, mais rafraîchissant.
Côté bouffe, le menu est assez frais, saison oblige. Les plateaux à partager sont tentants, mais la sélection d'huîtres présentées froides et chaudes, attirent particulièrement mon attention. Ce sera des Malpeque Rockefeller façon Huis Clos et Caribou et foie gras. Lorsque l'assiette arrive, je suis étonnée par les morceaux généreux de foie gras. Mes papilles, qui ne pensent qu'à la première bouchée, convainquent mes artères avec un argument de taille: les huîtres sont riches en protéines, vitamines et minéraux, et ne contiennent pas de cholestérol. C'est donc pour la bonne cause que je me lance.
Les Caribou de la Nouvelle-Écosse présentent une chair généreuse. Avec une sauce champagne, eau de rose et bière blanche, elles se marient à merveille avec le foie gras. Les Malpeque de l'Île-du-Prince-Édouard, ont une chair plus délicate. Elles sont préparées avec beurre d'herbes et vin blanc. La bouchée est citronnée, acidulée, complétée bien sûr par le goût enveloppant du beurre. Bien qu'il semble tout simple, ce petit mélange est un pur délice.
Dans un tout autre esprit, je poursuis avec le gravlax de boeuf. Puristes, ne soyez pas outrés. On sait bien que le terme "gravlax" s'applique normalement au saumon, mais c'est ici le terme choisi pour le bœuf en saumure. Il est présenté sur un lit d'haricots verts et asperges, accompagné d'une vinaigrette à l'estragon et une purée d'oignon à la moutarde. Je suis conquise. Les tranches de bœuf sont bien salées, et contrastent avec la fraîcheur de la salade.
Je devrais partir, mais la Coquille Saint-Jacques me fait de l'œil depuis que nos regards se sont croisés. Comme résister à la tentation ne fait pas partie de mes vertus, ce sera ma dernière bouchée pour clore la soirée en beauté. La Saint-Jacques arrive, joliment servie sur un lit de gros sel. Pétoncle, crevettes nordiques et palourdes sont délicatement mélangées dans le beurre, le sel et une touche de fromage. Si j'ai beaucoup aimé les huîtres et le gravlax de bœuf, cette Coquille Saint Jacques se démarque incontestablement par sa texture généreuse et son goût qui nous oblige à fermer les yeux lorsqu'on la déguste.
Si je m'attendais à un petit bar de quartier sympathique, mais sans grande surprises, le Huis Clos m'a conquise avec ses produits de qualité, offerts à des prix plus que raisonnables. L'heure est définitivement aux bars avec une vraie cuisine.
Plats: huîtres (12$ pour 3, 19$ pour 5), gravlax de bœuf (15$), Coquille Saint Jacques (11$)
À surveiller: jeudi 5 à 7 avec cocktails 2 oz à moitié prix, DJ mercredi au samedi
Huis Clos
7659, St Denis (coin Villeray)
(514) 419-8579
https://www.facebook.com/HuisClosVilleray
HUIS CLOS
VOYAGE AU PÉROU
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